Where to stay

Staying up in Magura
Magura is a small village which attracts people who like wilderness,, walking, mountains, hiking, wildlife, unspoilt environment, wildflower meadows, old-fashioned lifestyle, friendly people, cheap booze, home-cooked food, bird-watching, peace, clean air, big skies, 360 degree views, et al., ad inf.

There are several official places to stay, but pretty much every household will offer bed and board to visitors with great pleasure and their customary enthusiastic hospitality.

The German-run, purpose-built (in 2004) guest house Vila Hermani is clean, spacious, and quiet; many of its visitors are groups and families coming for the walking and wildlife but indy travellers go too - Germans, Brits, French, Italians are the majority. Katerina and Herman are lovely and both speak fluent English. Have a look: http://www.travel-to-romania.ro/countryside/vila-hermani-magura.htm

Cabana Montana, run by Adriana and George Moroie, is where I stayed for five years of building-in-progress visits. There is the old house, where you have breakfast, lunch and supper (if wished), and the new house (finished 2008) which has comfortable rooms in a homely Romanian style, a sitting room, large living room with massive picture windows looking out on the massive picture view, and a kitchen where you can self-cater the odd meal and make hot drinks. Highly recommended for warmth of welcome and lengths to which Adriana and George will go to make you comfortable and happy. Adriana's orchard-dwelling, organic, happy hens provide ultra-delicious eggs for breakfast - ask for omlet (obvious) or ochiuri (fried), and most of the food you'll have is grown either in Adriana's garden or elsewhere in the village. Adriana understands English but doesn't speak much - but I'm happy to act as agent for booking.

Adriana's sister-in-law Luci runs Casa Pepene next door, where I've also stayed. Luci and her husband speak fair English and are also delightful. Luci's another great cook - if you visit in October, make sure you try her zacusca (aubergine and tomato paste / relish) - utterly yum.

Just down the road is the yellow house of Laura and Paul and their young family. Comfortable, lots of good food, another great welcome and yet more fabulous views. These three B&Bs are family-friendly - the whole village is, indeed.

Last year I paid about £22 a night for bed, breakfast, most lunches and every supper at Adriana's; I'll put up current prices for all three places after Easter. Check direct with Katerina at Vila Hermani.

All the families on my ridge will be delighted to put you up if you fancy staying with a family rather than a guest house. Rodica and Aurel have fitted out their top floor as self-catering accommodation with spectacular views in all directions; but Rodica will be very happy to cook for you. Maria and Chivu put you up in their best bedroom and will cook for you; Roxana and Viorel (next door to me) will have their new bedrooms ready this year, and Emilia (next door the other way) will be thrilled to have you to stay.

Not sure about costs - probably the same or a bit cheaper than the guest houses, but I'll find out after Easter. I can send you photos of the people and their [guest] houses if you'd like to know more.

Staying in Zarnesti
You may prefer to be down in the town, which has basic shops, a few places to eat and 24-hour kiosks for late-night fags, drinks, nibbles and other essentials.

The best place to stay in Zarnesti, for any number of reasons, is with my friends Luminita and Dan Marin at the Transylvanian Wolf House.

The rooms are lovely, there's a sunny garden with dappled shade from apple trees, peace and quiet, gorgeous food and home-made drinks, charming company and one of the world's best guides (Dan won the Paul Morrison Award). Dan and Luminita have an extraordinary depth and breadth of knowledge about wildlife, history, culture, the Rroma, food and folk medicine and more. Dan will take you up to Maramures, the Apuseni Mountains, Moldova, the Danube Delta - anywhere in Romania you fancy going. Or you can trek up to the ridge of Piatra Craiului and look down on Magura - see if you can spot me chasing the sheep and Hobbs chasing the chickens.