New interest in uncool undead

[above] The popular outward manifestation of the Dracula legend, Bran Castle - just down the hill from my house. Actually the charming summer residence of the late Queen Marie of Romania, there is nothing of the Count inside the gates, although a thriving tat market outside the gates is full of fabulously tacky Drac tat.



[Right] The real residence of Vlad Tepes (he Impaler), at Poenari, miles from anywhere, on the Transfagarasan Highway. 1500 steps up from the road, apparently (I haven't checked).


ITV is broadcasting a new series in the spring – subtly titled 'Demons' – a kind of British Buffy, with Philip Glenister playing an American vampire chaser, godfather to a teenage Van Helsing. The series is set in London, which means the cast and crew missed the chance to see the real and beautiful homeland of the fictional über-vampire, Count Dracula.

I don't like to mention the matter here, it being a seriously uncool topic in Transylvania. (Bit like an eager Beatles fan coming to Liverpool and banging on and on and on about the Fab Four. At least the Beatles existed, and two have been sighted this year in the city.)

Dracula was the invention of an Irishman who (I gather) never went to Transylvania, and although the Dracula name has some etymological relevance, the myth is redundant. But what a spoilsport I am. If Dracula, and his supposed inspiration, Vlad Tepes, bring folk to the area, they will see the true value of Transylvania and its people, and forget about the gothic nonsense. I am being hypocritical, of course, as I grew up on Hammer horrors, and once (when I was very young) trailed Christopher Lee through Shepherd's Market in London. (He is very tall. Easy to spot.)

Dan, the world's best guide

Dan Marin, who with his wife Luminita (pictured with Dan) and son Bogdan are entirely responsible for my having a foothold in Transylania, has just won a hugely prestigious award which will shoot him into the super league of eco-guides around the world.

The Paul Morrison Guide Award 2007 was given to Dan at a fabulous evening at the Royal Geographical Society in London on 4th October.

Exodus, the tour operator which Dan does so much guiding for, ran this report on its site:

"Exodus guide Danut Marin has scooped the prestigious Wanderlust Paul Morrison Guide Award 2007 alongside fellow guide Selwyn Davidowitz. Danut was one of three guides from around the globe short listed by Wanderlust readers and was commended for his expertise on trips to his native Romania. Last night Danut and Selwyn were announced as the overall joint winners of the respected award by a panel of judges that included travel celebrities Bill Bryson, Michael Palin and members of the Wanderlust team.
The Wanderlust Paul Morrison Guide Award is regarded as the award for the often unsung heroes of travel and is highly regarded by the travel industry and consumers alike.
Danut Marin was nominated for his guiding of Exodus’ Romania: Carpathian Culture and Wildlife tour. Exodus clients voted for him because of the passion that he displays for his country and its wildlife and his ability to give a sensitive yet honest account of the somewhat tumultuous history of his native country. Voters also commented on his ability to recognise and take care of the needs of individuals on the trip.
Danut Marin comments: ‘I am extremely touched that so many Exodus clients chose to vote for me and got so much enjoyment from the trips. I hope that by jointly winning this award I can highlight the importance of less mainstream tour operators such as Exodus to the Romanian tourism industry and to the economy as a whole.’
The full results of The Paul Morrison Guide Award 2007 will appear in the November issue of Wanderlust on sale from 12 October."

Another of those who voted for Dan was none other than explorer Ranulph Fiennes – not a bad recommendation to the judges.

Equinox blues

It's been too long since I was in my mountain fastness. I was meant to be there now, but time and the in-tray have defeated me. Hallowe'en will happen without the customary batch of Dracula tat gathered up in armfuls from the gates of Bran Castle. It's the only time I show any interest in the toothsome Count and his doings – mugs, T-shirts, wine, trinkets and curios of reasonable quality (wine is actually terrific, even with the kitsch labels) and attractively priced, as the estate agent would say. Cheap, I'd say.

I stil have one packet of chemicals acquired in July and not yet given away. I will take it to darkest Wales next week as a naff contribution to the fabulous Samhain celebrations being planned by chums. The packet is called 'Lets dip Dracula' and is a vile concoction of unhealth* to be mixed in with sour cream for a pink pretence of something bloody, I presume.

*Ingredients: sugar, salt (16%), tomato juice, MSG, vegetable fat, chilli, seasoning, sweet pepper, onion, garlic, pepper, cumin, oregano, parsley, coriander. Oh, and 'amidon modificat' which translates as some kind of E number. There's lots of that - only slightly more than the vast amount of MSG. NB that the actual food (herbs, veg, spices) come at the bottom of the list, which means there are only trace elements of each.

It's disgusting - I tried a crispful of the stuff at someone else's party (my friends are so lucky) and it was sweet and salty with a light chemical tang. Ultra yum.

Liverpool to Sibiu

Sibiu (est 1190AD) is European Capital of Culture 2007 (along with Luxembourg), and 8 girls with 4 teachers came out to visit from Archbishop Blanch School in Liverpool (2008 Capital of Culture). Here they are, on the Gossips' Bridge, just before the huge thunderstorm hit and drenched us all. The following day they all came up to Magura for a night's stay and dinner outside on the terrace, overlooking two sets of mountains. Slightly different from the usual urban views in Liverpool.

Neigh-bours

The driver of the horse and cart is my neighbour, Rodica - her husband Aurel is there on the right. They are heading up to the shepherd camp to see how their sheep are doing and to get some cheese. You can't really see her, but the horse's foal is trailing along behind them. She was six weeks old when this was taken last Sunday.

Hands-on management

Milking sheep is a long process, and it happens three times a day. These guys live up in the shepherd camp all summer with the flocks, and the huge, aggressive shepherd dogs.

While the sun shines

On the road from Zarnesti to Bran, we found this trio turning hay in the roasting heat. They thought it was a seriously good joke that we wanted to take their photos, but between gusts of laughter two of them spoke to us in an efficient mix of Romanian, German and English. We left knowing that we had provided a good dose of entertainment.